Your water heater is possibly the most crucial part of your properties plumbing program. A adequately maintained heater can final from ten to fifteen years or extra. But, a heater not adequately maintained can fail in four to six years. The situation of the drinking water in your region and the location of the heater in your property are out of your handle, but suitable maintenance of the heater and your plumbing program is vital to heater longevity and safety.
This report provides you a list of items to check for both tank type and tankless water heaters. As you go through the steps in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capacity, get a specialist, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, natural gas, and electrical energy!
Tank Kind Water Heater Upkeep:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent really should be the similar diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent should really go normally “up and out” the ceiling.
Where is passes via the exterior wall, the vent should be double-walled.
Vent sections must be screwed together with a minimum three screws per section.
Note: Bad vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is made to avoid the heater from exploding if the water pressure or temperature exceeds secure limits.
Pull up the deal with on the valve and water ought to flow out and stop when you let go of the deal with.
The T&P valve has a drain line that must go down to about six” from the floor or be plumbed outside your property.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a terrible T&P valve, high water pressure, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Stress (All Water Heaters)
Water pressure more than 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage heaters and your piping. It can also damage plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: water heater replacement Placentia that your have higher water pressure is when the T&P Valve on the heater begins opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Handle
Inspect the heater temperature control dial to insure its set at the appropriate water temperature.
The best water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Something above 120° Fahrenheit tremendously increases scalding risk, power use, and sediment develop-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve handle to “pilot position”.
Eliminate the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve control back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber indicates drafting complications, combustion troubles, fume difficulties, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make confident the pedestal base the heater rests on is steady and supports the unit.
The common pedestal will retain the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater could have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the need to have for a pedestal. Verify the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it should have a drain pan.
The drain pan should really be plumbed to the outside of your household.
Inspect the situation of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outside.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the excellent of the air is important.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored near a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to protect against rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to defend the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode more than time and get employed up via an electrolytic approach.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, really should be accomplished by a trained, qualified service technician.
Sediment Construct-up-Sediment is made when hard water is heated. The develop-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can lead to the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open check valves, and cause the recirculating pump to stick until it burns out. Sediment construct-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is triggered by modest amounts of water below the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment develop-up can cut down the power efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater companies advocate flushing the entire unit each and every six months to 1 year based upon the water high quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit often removes any mineral deposits (commonly calcium or lime) that could have constructed up inside the boilers. Suppliers recommend working with a utility pump to circulate three or four gallons of vinegar or a further low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.